Before buying a tripod, we should know when we need to use a tripod, what kind of photography will requires the tripod. The tripod is one cumbersome accessory, and in many cases, it’s just one of those items we don’t want to lug along with us each and every time we’re planning on taking pictures. However, even without the tripod, there are several ways to improve our photographing results, if we pay attention to our surroundings.
When we need to use a tripod:
- Night shoot photography
- Slower shutter speed: you need to use a tripod when your shutter speed is slower than 1/focal-length of the lens. Thus with a standard 50mm lens, you should not attempt to handhold shutter speeds slower than 1/60th and with a 500mm telephoto lens, you will have to keep the shutter speed at 1/500th or faster. Rationale? Longer lenses magnify the subject but they also magnify any vibration of the camera. This will reduce your camera shake.
- Big enlargements or using long focal length lenses : you need to use a tripod all the time. The standard rule is designed for 35mm cameras and presupposes a certain degree of enlargement and viewing distance from the final print. If you’re going to make big enlargements and let people get close to the prints, then you need to be more careful about lots of stuff including camera shake.
- Controlled big camera motion: you might be able to handhold a slower shutter speed because the final image won’t be enlarged as much (since the negative is larger). On the other hand, medium- and large-format cameras are so big and heavy that most photographers prefer to use them on a tripod if only to avoid muscle fatigue. Sports photographers often use a monopod so that they don’t have to support the weight of a 300/2.8 or 600/4 lens through an entire football game.
- Working with fast moving subjects: Sometimes showing subject motion without the distracting blur introduced by a shaky camera makes for a dramatically interesting photograph. A solid tripod allows holding the camera perfectly still during a long exposure to keep the background sharp while the moving water blurs, achieving the effect of motion. Another example of fast motion photography using a tripod might be a soccer player attacking the ball. By holding the camera securely still, only the motion in the scene remains for a fast shutter speed to deliver a crisp image without the unnatural blur of shaky camera motion.
- Close-up photography: Holding the camera steady is vital for sharp, clear pictures. Even slight camera movement can blur pictures. Pressing the shutter release smoothly and gradually and using a tripod will eliminate camera movement for the sharpest pictures. Just like when using telephoto lenses to bring the subject closer, close-up or macro photography magnifies any camera shaking. Even with a tripod, the slightest vibration of the mounted camera setup will cause blur. Notice how touching the mounted camera vibrates the setup. Even the camera shutter can cause shaking. These tiny vibrations can be reduced by using heavy tripods, yet care by using cable releases or camera self-timers can help minimize camera movement. Test the setup before depending on it for critical results.
- Outdoor photography always dealing with wind: Wind can be a nemesis. The breeze can move the subject and create subtle vibration in an inadequate tripod. Two physical qualities contribute to tripod stability: mass and spring. Mass suggests the weight of a tripod. Spring relates to bounce-back inherent in a tripods design or materials. A heavy tripod offers inherent stability. A well designed tripod with center stabilizers or broad leg stance can improve stability. Traditionally, woods like, Oak, Ash or Beech, have been used for their high degree of stability per pound. ‘Sticks’ as they are traditionally called, afford recognized strength and stability when used in proven designs. At times, using a wind break can help minimize motion. This may be as simple as using a hat to shield a tiny flower or positioning an automobile to offer a wind screen. Patients is perhaps the most useful quality in dealing with wind. With practice, you may discover the ‘rhythm’ of the wind to take advantage of the natural flow and ebb between gusts.
What the features we should look before buying a tripod
- Construction Material: The carbon-fiber tripod offers the greatest weight to stability ratio against the more common aluminum tripod. The carbon-fiber model will also be easier to hold during those cold, winter days. Unfortunately, the carbon-fiber tripod will come with a much higher price tag. If you can afford the price tag, it is an item that you won’t be replacing and won’t regret using. If you cost average the price against how many years you will be using it, it might become the one to think about after you realize all the compromises that you had to consider on similar models. If you end up replacing a tripod that didn’t fit your needs, the extra cost of eventually purchasing another tripod might cost you the same price.
- Tripod Height: There are 3 heights that you should be concerned with maximum, minimum, folded height.
You have 2 options regarding the maximum height. The tripod with camera can be at eye level to you or the tripod and camera combination can be less than eye level. The tripod that is less than eye level is generally referred to as mini or compact tripod, lighter as long as equal construction materials are compared against one another. This tripod tends to fold up into a shorter unit for carrying or packing. You will generally regret choosing a shorter model as you will constantly be bending over or lowering your body to photograph.
- Centerpost: There are 2 options available for the centerpost whicht are smoothed or geared.
The smooth centerpost is extended by holding the centerpost and raising it. The geared version has a small crank on the side, and when turned, raises or lowers the centerpost. The geared version allows you to raise or lower the tripod with one hand which is for some, and advantage. There is also an option with the smooth centerpost. Some manufacturers allow the centerpost to be removed and turned upside down so that the camera can be closer to the ground. This feature comes in handy some times. If you feel that this might be of value, then consider the smooth centerpost.
- Legs: There are 2 choices of type of tripod legs which are tubular or channels legs
Tubular models are almost always heavier, resulting in a longer life span and a more stable support. The legs usually have 2, 3, 4 or 5 sections. The tripod becomes less stable with more sections added while the tripod’s folded height becomes much shorter. The sections of the legs are adjusted by means of a leg brace, the more common types being either a flip-lock or clamp lever or the threaded twist lock. Threaded twist locks offer good strength and rigidity, but take longer set-up and breakdown time. They are also subject to over tightening and can pick up sand and grit. Flip-lock or clamp levers are generally the most satisfactory overall because of quick set-up, trouble-free operation (easy to use with gloves), and long term durability. The type of locking device is usually a personal decision since there are many pros and cons for each type of locking device.
- Feet: The tripod might have a combination of two types of feet which are outdoor or indoor use.
Some tripods allow you to unscrew the bottom of the legs to produce a pointed end for outdoor use. When the feet are set to normal, the legs have a rubber bottom for indoor use.
- Head: Check the specifications on the maximum weight that the head can handle to make sure that it will work properly with the tripod since the choice of head is even more important than the tripod choice. Also be sure to check the maximum weight that the tripod and head in combination can handle. Pan-tilt heads are excellent for landscape and macro work. There are 2 types of pan-and-tilt heads, Two handle or One handle. The single handle head was originally for movie and video cameras that required horizontal positioning only. The two handle head has the ability to adjust both horizontal and vertically so that you can position your camera at the exact position necessary. They also make good general purpose heads.
- Stability Test: If possible, mount your camera on the tripod that you are considering. Stomp on the ground next to your tripod and watch the camera lens move. Then, jiggle the leg of the tripod and watch the camera lens. You are looking for the least amount of lens movement and the quickest recovery (how long does it take the lens to stop jiggling). The smaller or lighter the tripod, the harder it will stand up to this stability test.
